You clicked to get a straight answer: is firewood renewable? Here’s the short version: yes, but only under the right conditions. Firewood is renewable when forests regrow at least as fast as we cut and when harvesting doesn’t erode soil, biodiversity, or long-term carbon stocks. It is not renewable if we overharvest, burn wet wood in smoky stoves, or source from high-carbon forests that won’t recover for decades. I’ve split and burned wood for years, and the difference between doing it right and wrong is night and day-for your air, your neighbors, and the climate.
TL;DR: Clear answer, with the trade-offs
- Yes, conditionally renewable: Firewood is renewable if annual harvest ≤ annual forest regrowth and the forest’s carbon stock stays stable or increases. If harvest exceeds growth, it’s not.
- Carbon timing matters: Burning wood releases carbon now; regrowth pulls it back later. Residues and thinnings typically pay back carbon in a few years. Whole-tree harvests from slow-growing forests can take decades.
- Air quality is the near-term risk: Old stoves and wet wood can release 10-20+ g PM2.5 per kg burned. EPA-certified stoves and dry wood (≤20% moisture) cut smoke by several times.
- Comparing fuels: At the chimney, wood emits ~93 kg CO2 per MMBtu (biogenic). Gas is ~53 kg CO2/MMBtu, oil ~74. Wood’s climate case depends on regrowth; gas and oil don’t get a “biogenic” pass.
- Do it right: Buy local certified wood or use storm-fall/thinnings, season to ≤20% moisture, use an EPA-certified or pellet stove, and don’t burn on air-quality alert days.
How to use firewood responsibly (step-by-step)
If your goal is heat that’s wallet-friendly and climate-sane, follow this simple path. It’s not hard-just consistent.
- Source sustainably.
- Ask your supplier: Is the wood from local, sustainably managed forests? Look for regional certifications (FSC, PEFC) or municipal fuelwood permits. In many U.S. states, county foresters can confirm harvest sustainability.
- Prioritize residues: storm-fall, tops and limbs, hazard trees, and thinnings. These usually have short carbon payback times and avoid displacing sawlog carbon.
- Avoid clearcut salvage marketed as “green.” If a forest stand loses long-term carbon stock, that’s not renewable in the near term.
- Season to ≤20% moisture.
- Split and stack off the ground with good airflow, top-covered, sides open.
- Use a $20 moisture meter; aim for 15-20% before burning. Hardwood often needs 6-12 months; dense species (oak) can need 12-24 months.
- Rule of thumb: If you hear sizzling or see dark glass, your wood isn’t ready.
- Use a clean-burning appliance.
- EPA-certified stove (post-2020) or pellet stove. Look for low grams-per-hour emissions on the label.
- Size the stove to your space. Oversized stoves smolder and smoke; right-sized stoves run hot and clean.
- If your area has Ecodesign or DEFRA requirements (EU/UK), make sure your model complies.
- Burn hot, not slow.
- Start with dry kindling; open air controls fully until a bright, rolling flame holds; then reduce air per the manual. Avoid long smolder phases.
- Never burn trash, treated wood, or wet wood. They spike toxic emissions and can wreck your flue.
- Check the chimney outside: you want heat shimmer, not visible smoke, once the fire is established.
- Maintain the system.
- Chimney sweep: at least once each season, more if you burn daily.
- Gaskets and baffles: inspect yearly and replace worn parts.
- Ash: store in a metal bin with a lid, on concrete, 10+ feet from structures. Embers stay hot for days.
- Be air-aware.
- Check local air-quality alerts. Many cities restrict wood burning on high PM2.5 days.
- If your valley traps smoke (inversions), consider a heat pump as your primary heat and wood as backup.
- Talk to neighbors; if they smell smoke indoors, adjust your practice.
On the big picture: the FAO sums up sustainable forest use well:
“Sustainable forest management aims to maintain and enhance the economic, social and environmental values of all types of forests, for the benefit of present and future generations.” - Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO)

Examples, numbers, and real-world trade-offs
Firewood’s climate story is all about timing and context. Two households can both burn a cord, but their impacts can be very different.
Scenario A: Rural homestead with thinning residues. You’re in a mixed hardwood stand that’s been growing faster than it’s been cut. You use thinnings and storm-fall, season properly, and run an EPA-certified stove. Carbon payback is short (often a few years) because you’re burning material that would have decomposed anyway. You displace propane or oil, both fossil. Air emissions are modest because your wood is dry and your stove is clean.
Scenario B: Urban edge, slow-growing forest, old stove. Your supplier taps whole trees from a mature stand that otherwise would keep adding carbon. You burn in an old, uncertified stove with wet wood. You might push local PM2.5 into unhealthy territory on calm winter nights. The forest’s carbon stock drops and takes decades to recover. That’s not the kind of “renewable” anyone should brag about.
Why the carbon math can be confusing: At the stack, wood has a higher CO2 per unit heat than gas. But biogenic CO2 can be offset by regrowth-if and when it happens. The IPCC distinguishes biogenic from fossil CO2 and notes that climate benefits depend on sustainable harvest rates and the timescale for regrowth. Some peer-reviewed studies show carbon payback under five years for residues and short-rotation coppice; others show 30-80+ years when whole trees from slow forests are used. Context is everything.
Air quality is immediate. The climate payback might take years, but your lungs care tonight. Health agencies like the WHO note there is effectively no safe threshold for PM2.5-lower is always better. That’s why using dry wood, modern stoves, and not burning on inversion days matters. I’ve seen neighbors switch to a pellet stove and cut visible smoke to near zero.
Fuel / Device | Typical energy content (per common unit) | CO2 at stack (kg per MMBtu) | PM2.5 emissions (typical) | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
Air-dried hardwood (cord) in EPA-certified stove | ~20 MMBtu per cord | ~93 (biogenic) | ~2-4 g PM2.5 per kg wood | Low smoke if moisture ≤20% and stove run hot |
Air-dried hardwood (cord) in old uncertified stove | ~20 MMBtu per cord | ~93 (biogenic) | ~8-20+ g PM2.5 per kg wood | High smoke; creosote risk; often illegal on alert days |
Open fireplace (decorative) | Negligible net heat | ~93 (biogenic) | ~30-60 g PM2.5 per kg wood | Very inefficient; mostly ambiance, not heat |
Wood pellets in pellet stove | ~16.5 MMBtu per ton | ~93 (biogenic) | ~0.2-1 g PM2.5 per kg pellets | Very stable burn; low ash; needs power |
Natural gas furnace | 1,037 BTU per cubic foot | ~53 | Near zero on site | Fossil CO2; low PM2.5 at point of use |
Heating oil furnace | ~138,500 BTU per gallon | ~74 | Low on site (with modern burners) | Fossil CO2; higher than gas |
Electric heat pump (grid-dependent) | 3-4 units heat per unit electricity (COP) | 0 on site | 0 on site | Upstream emissions depend on grid mix |
Sources for typical values: U.S. EPA emission factors for CO2 per MMBtu; EPA/EN standards and field studies for PM2.5 ranges; standard fuel properties from DOE/USFS and manufacturer data. Ranges vary with device, fuel, and operation.
How much is “sustainable” to burn? Here’s a simple way to think about it at a community scale:
- Find your region’s forest growth and removals (state forestry reports or national forest inventories). In much of the eastern U.S., recent data show net growth ≥ removals; in some hotspots, harvest and disturbance exceed growth.
- Heuristic: Annual harvest for fuelwood should be less than or equal to (Annual growth − natural mortality − long-term soil/wood product needs). If the forest carbon stock is stable or rising, you’re inside the renewable lane.
- If wildfires, pests, or droughts are rising in your area (2025 makes that common), leave a larger margin. What was “sustainable” ten years ago might be risky today.
Indoor health matters too. A tight home with a leaky stove can raise indoor PM quickly. Look for proper flue draft, use good seals, and install a PM2.5 sensor and CO monitor. Small steps, big peace of mind.
Checklist, rules of thumb, and mini‑FAQ
Bookmark this part. It’s the fast way to avoid the classic mistakes and answer the follow-up questions you probably have right now.
Quick checklist (sourcing):
- Local, certified, or verifiably sustainable source? Yes/No
- Mostly residues/thinnings, not whole mature trees? Yes/No
- Delivery month vs. burn season: Do you have 6-12 months to season? Yes/No
Quick checklist (prepping and burning):
- Moisture ≤20% (check 2-3 fresh splits with a meter)?
- EPA-certified or pellet stove, sized to your space?
- Bright flame after start-up; no steady smoke from the chimney?
- Chimney swept this season; gaskets/baffles intact?
- Air-quality alert today? If yes, skip the fire.
Rules of thumb:
- Seasoning: Most hardwoods need 6-12 months; oak can need up to 24. Softwoods season faster (3-6 months) but burn quicker.
- Storage: Keep wood off ground (on pallets), top-cover only, sides open.
- Efficiency: A modern stove can deliver 70-80% efficiency; open fireplaces can be net negative for space heating.
- Cord planning: A typical, well-insulated 1,500-2,000 sq ft home in a cold climate might burn 2-4 cords per season as primary heat; half that for shoulder seasons/backup. Insulation and windows change everything.
- Carbon timing: Residues and thinnings often pay back in 1-5 years; whole-tree harvests from slow-growing stands can take decades. When in doubt, choose residues.
Decision helper:
- If you have reliable, low-carbon electricity (lots of wind/solar/hydro) and ductwork, a heat pump is usually the cleanest primary heat. Keep a small, clean wood or pellet stove for outages or deep cold.
- If grid power is shaky and winters are harsh, a certified wood or pellet stove can be your resilient primary, with careful sourcing and burning practice.
- If you live in a smoke-trap valley or a city with frequent burn bans, make wood your backup, not your daily heat.
Mini‑FAQ
- Is firewood carbon neutral? Not by default. It can be near‑neutral over time if harvest stays at or below regrowth and forest carbon stocks don’t decline. The “over time” part can be years or decades depending on what you burn and where it grew.
- Does wood emit more CO2 than gas? Per unit heat at the stack, yes. Wood is ~93 kg CO2/MMBtu, gas ~53. But wood’s CO2 is biogenic and can be re‑absorbed by regrowing forests; gas is fossil and adds to the total no matter what.
- What about health? Fine particles (PM2.5) drive most health risk. Modern stoves and dry wood reduce them a lot, and pellet stoves cut them even more. If someone in your home has asthma or heart issues, consider a heat pump as primary.
- How dry is “dry enough”? 15-20% moisture. Use a meter on a freshly split face. If it’s higher, keep seasoning.
- Is pellet heat better? Often yes for air quality and convenience. Climate-wise, pellets depend on feedstock; sawmill residues are best. Bag deliveries and electricity needs are trade-offs.
- Can I burn construction scraps? No if they’re painted, stained, glued, or treated. Burn only clean, natural wood.
- What regulations apply in 2025? In the U.S., EPA certifies new wood heaters and many cities have no-burn days. The UK’s “Ready to Burn” requires wood ≤20% moisture. The EU’s Ecodesign rules limit emissions. Always check your local authority.
Troubleshooting
- Glass is blackening fast: Wood is wet or you’re throttling air too soon. Open air, burn smaller splits, and season longer.
- Chimney smells or drips creosote: Wet wood or cool flue. Sweep, burn hotter, and check gaskets.
- Neighbors complain about smoke: Switch to drier wood, light smaller but hotter fires, or upgrade to a pellet stove. Avoid burning on still, cold nights.
- House gets too hot: Stove is oversized. Burn shorter cycles with smaller loads, or consider a smaller unit/heat shields.
- Draft problems on startup: Preheat the flue with a small torch or wad of newspaper held near the flue path before loading the firebox.
Where the science lands (credibility notes): The IPCC’s assessment reports describe biogenic carbon accounting and warn that benefits depend on harvest rates and timescales. The U.S. EPA shows that modern certified stoves cut emissions compared to older models. National forest inventories (e.g., USFS) track where growth exceeds removals-green lights for careful use. The WHO and national health agencies stress that PM2.5 harms health at even low concentrations, which is why dry fuel and clean appliances matter.
If you take one thing from this: treat wood heat like a responsibility, not just a fuel. Source from forests that can spare it, burn it clean, and give your air (and your neighbors) the respect they deserve.